Madame Vo. Pho. Vietnam.

Restaurant: 8/10

Could happily eat the entire menu. Nice staff. Cool joint.

Dish: 8/10

Delicious. Exceptional.

Pho is Vietnam's national dish: one of the few noodle soup dishes among the national dishes of the world. In the U.S., Pho is fairly well known and heartily consumed, especially in areas with decent Vietnamese expat communities, like Southern California and Texas. Pho was certainly familiar to us, and therefore less of an exploratory experience than some other of our adventures. 

We thought it important to find some of the best Pho in New York City for this challenge, and so we read several articles listing excellent Vietnamese restaurants. Those lists and reviews can be tiresome and repetitive, and often the more one reads, the less one knows. However, Madame Vo in the East Village caught our eye for some of the descriptions of the broth, which for us is the key of a great Pho. 

Ramen with Options

This is the way we thought of Pho when we first had it. With Ramen, everything is placed in the bowl, floating in the soup. But with Pho, you are often given broth with noodles and meat, and everything else is served on the side - scallions, thai basil, green chili, limes, bean shoots, plum sauce and sriracha. Sometimes, they even serve the meat on the side. It's an interesting concept and probably a unique one for a national dish - the eater is in control of their own flavor combo.

Of course the flavor of Pho Is nothing like the flavor of Ramen. Pho broth Is almost always much more muted, some might say subtle, than Ramen broth, and tends to have a lighter, more acidic mouth feel. Where Ramen feels fatty, salty and rich, Pho can often feel like a palate cleanser. That said, the broth at Madame Vo was one of the more complex, rich and delicious broths we have ever had. Whether this is to appeal to the western palate or if this is an authentic Vietnamese experience, we don't know, but we would love to visit Vietnam to find out. Our options, aforementioned, on this occasion were a large plate of bean shoots, half a lime, thick chopped jalapeno, and a stalk of thai basil. 

Because there are so many options with Pho, it can be quite intimidating to American eaters. The best way to eat Pho Is to take a huge bite of the thai basil, stalks and all, and then drink the soup - keep It all In your mouth and then pour Sriracha directly Into your mouth before swallowing it all while weeping profusely. Or you can just eat it whatever way you want, and refuse to be told how to do anything - the American way! 

Vietnamese cuisine is often said to bear the hallmarks of French influence. The Banh-mi, for instance, takes french bread and fills it with Vietnamese flavors. We don't know that we see this influence in Pho, and we think any reading of french Influence would be doing more credit to the french than they are worth. For us, the flavor of Pho broth is a wholly distinct one. You could put it In front of us, anywhere in the world, and we would smell it and taste it and say it is Pho. That may seem an obvious thing to say, but it's actually not true of most world cuisine, especially from countries that have assembled their national cuisines based on various pilfered ideas from their former colonies. 

Vietnam and Vietnamese Americans


More American bombs have been deployed in Vietnam than any other country on earth and more Vietnamese people have been killed by American armed forces than any other nationality on earth. The USA created a puppet regime in South Vietnam during the war that, when it collapsed In 1975, created havoc for the Vietnamese people and led to a massive influx of Vietnamese-born people into the USA, mostly to California, over the following decades.

There are 2.3 million Vietnamese-Americans - an astounding figure when you consider that the number was in the low thousands prior to 1975. We wonder (but have no intention of finding out, because this is primarily a food-related blog), if there is any comparable influx of immigrants from a single country post-WW2. 

Vietnamese Americans are, by and large, unlikely to be very big fans of the government of Vietnam, or of left-wing thought in general. Much like Cuban Americans, they are a conservative bloc, who mostly adhere to the whole 'freedom-Is-better' school of thought. It's hard to argue that Vietnam is currently not the most stable country on earth. Like the UK, they have had an absurd number of leaders of late, but unlike the UK, the resignations were due to corruption more than stupidity. That said, their economy has been trending In the right direction, and they seem to remain committed to the socialist ideals of Ho Chi Minh, even as China largely abandons socialism as a goal, in spite of some occasionaly posturing. 

Madame Pho

Madame Vo probably seats 50-60, Including some outdoor seating. We ordered the Madame Pho, which is really the only classic Pho on the menu, but there is a vegetarian option. We had been here once before and did not get Pho, and can honestly say that everything on the menu is delicious. Whether it's cold out, and you need a hearty meal to warm you up, or it's hot as balls and you need to chill out with some spring rolls and Papaya salad, this restaurant is a winner. 

The owners also operate Monsieur Vo, a BBQ-focussed restaurant, a few blocks away In the East Village. The East Village, generally, seems to have the widest range of options right now for food from various countries. Within a block or two of Madame Vo you can find restaurants with food from every continent and a wide variety of countries. We're glad that, despite the relatively low proportion of Vietnamese Americans In New York City, Vietnam is one of those countries.